Leather sole 皮鞋 - 跣到趴街

shu_sum

說到皮鞋, 當然有好大部分都是 leather sole.

師兄們通常會選擇哪一種方法穿 leather sole 鞋?

1. 加膠底 topy
2. 自然地穿等到 leather sole 開始磨到有 friction, 一兩年後拿回去 re-sole
3. 自己先用工具令光滑皮底變得粗糙

昨天穿了對新鞋, 未 break-in, 在 office carpet 上好像玩 snowboard, 在商場走路差點跣到 PK

jack

我一般causal 款 derby 都會打掌, 多數用vibram 簿底
斯文款多數唔打, 如果有幾對鞋輪流著, 幾年都未穿底

Patrick_c

I dont do that unless the sole is originally rubber.

I read from style forum that the leather sole is breathable, it can get the moist out. If a topy is added on top, it somehow blocks the breathing process.

shu_sum

Patrick_c 發表於 2013-8-15 10:52
I dont do that unless the sole is originally rubber.

I read from style forum that the leather sol ...

May I know where you usually bring your leather shoes (eg goodyear welted construction) for re-soling?

Patrick_c

You can have your shoes shipped back to uk for resoleing by the local dealer, that takes snouty three to four months. I don't know how much EG charges because I don't have EG. For John lobb Paris, they are now charging hkd 4000 for the classic line and 5000 for the prestige line. But the lobb is generous enough to offer free resoleing service for an existing pair if people buy a new pair of shoes during the month of Chinese New Year in hk.

Or I remember seeing a thread on hkdiscuss  by a c hing named fishball, he once mentioned a shoe repair shop in hk was capable of resoleing good year welted shoes and that costed merely 1000 hkd something.

Don't worry about the issue, high end dress shoes are very durable. I wear my lobbs day in day out walking around, the shoes, i have 3 pairs, are still fine.

After all, if budget permits, buy more than one pair for daily rotation because dress shoes need to breath to maintain its shape and conditions.

Btw, I like your new EG, they look sexy.
Edit: what I meant resloeing is a complete overhaul not just an add-on of a topy. The whole sole is taken off and a new one is put on using Goodyear welt like completely new.

SS.LEICA

開左鞋之后 , 打掌啦!!但如果你不是箸番工 , 可以帶對 eg , 到場先換鞋 !

Toffeebb

番工 GA, 開左鞋之后, 前掌頂部磨到咁上下, 就打 TOPY, 可以著耐 D, 2 年

casual 著 GA, 就唔打 LA. 出現率低, 可以著 3 ~ 4 年

磨到咁上下, 就唔會拉個對新掌, 買對新LA

Supreme

Patrick_c 發表於 2013-8-15 15:54
You can have your shoes shipped back to uk for resoleing by the local dealer, that takes snouty thre ...

Thanks for the useful info and comments.

Should we avoid wearing leather sole shoes in rainy day? Thx!

Patrick_c

dont mention it, i just shared what i know.

in theory, avoid if we can. but most of the time we cant, what we can do is to keep the shoes completely dry at home until next wearing.

C9.99

Patrick_c 發表於 2013-8-30 16:55
dont mention it, i just shared what i know.

in theory, avoid if we can. but most of the time we ca ...

Patrick, could U share your John Lobb Paris to us? I really like it ar....

Patrick_c

C9.99 發表於 2013-9-1 00:39
Patrick, could U share your John Lobb Paris to us? I really like it ar....

my first pair, brown wingtip oxford, came in 2008. a 40 or 50% discount off the rack price even in the first discount week. that was very unusual. i think such a quick markdown was due to the 2008 economic crisis, the whole retail sector was stagnant then. im still happy that the pair was a steal @ hkd 5k something.

got my second in 2010, double monk. no discount. i love the brown parisian leather, which is a signature of lobb paris. the pair was somethign like hkd 8.4k.

my third pair, brown sneakers, came about a year ago, with a 30 or 40% discount, can't recall exactly. something like 4k hkd. the sneakers are in office, so i can't take photos of them right now.

wait until they offer MTO for just the price of RTW, held once a year in hk.

but for bespoke, there are no valid reasons buying from lobb paris, over 60k hkd a pair of bespoke now, overpriced. if one can fork out that kind of money, why not bother going to london to get a 'real' pair of lobb or wait until they fly to hk once a year. if i still remember correctly, the price of getting a pair of real lobb now still starts at around hkd 34k.

Supreme

Patrick Ching, thx for sharing. The color of your 1st pair is so nice.

I do not have any Lobb yet. Planning to get my 1st pair maybe next year. Recently just bought too many kicks, need to rock them 1st.

C9.99

Patrick_c 發表於 2013-9-1 02:02
my first pair, brown wingtip oxford, came in 2008. a 40 or 50% discount off the rack price even in  ...

Thanks Patick, very nice Lobb especially the double monk.
May I know the difference in between Paris Lobb and England Lobb?
I know Hermes group buy Paris Lobb at 70's only.

Patrick_c

C9.99 發表於 2013-9-1 20:52
Thanks Patick, very nice Lobb especially the double monk.
May I know the difference in between Par ...

to the best of my knowledge, lobb london was in deep financial crisis in the 1970s, on the verge of closing down its only overseas branch in paris. hermes at that time bought out the paris branch.

from then on, john lobb london has focused on its family business in the london store while hermes bearing the name of john lobb has opened up branches around the world.

john lobb london up to this moment is still owned and operated by the lobb family. all shoes are hand-made in london and are 100% bespoke from last, leather, to sole.

before having its own factory, john lobb paris commissioned EG or other english shoe makers to make shoes. now, john lobb paris is based in northampton where the english shoe-making business is all about. EG, C&J, Loake, G&G, to name a few, are all neighbors. john lobb paris mainly does RTW machine-made shoes, with MTO and bespoke occasionally.  

at a glance:
john lobb london is made in london while john lobb paris is made in northampton.

john lobb london only does bespoke while john lobb paris does RTW, MTO and bespoke.

john lobb london is still a family business while john lobb paris is a hermes-owned enterprise.

Patrick_c

pricelist of john lobb london

http://www.johnlobbltd.co.uk/main/pricelist.htm

Patrick_c

i really like this one but i must stop impulsive buying.

C9.99

Patrick_c 發表於 2013-9-1 21:26
to the best of my knowledge, lobb london was in deep financial crisis in the 1970s, on the verge of ...

Thanks for sharing!

shu_sum

Patrick_c 發表於 2013-9-1 21:43
i really like this one but i must stop impulsive buying.

shu_sum

I am debating within myself about this re-soling issue for leather sole. Assuming I only wear the shoes once or twice a week:

1.  Re-soling: the pair of shoes can probably last for 2 to 3 more years. But the drawback is that the shoe can't breathe that smoothly and moisture might be kept in the sole. I usually leave the shoes in a ventilated area for 15 minutes and then insert the shoe trees. I believe this can help getting rid of the moisture. Adding Topy to the pair costs HK$160.

2.  Not re-soling: Just leave the pair of shoes as it is. Of course, avoid wearing it in rainy days to minimize the PK risk. After 2 years, send it back to the shoe company for re-sole. Waiting time should be 3 to 4 months. Courier + service charge would be around HK$2,xxx for Carmina and Edward Green. For Carmina, I can almost use the money (with HK$1000 top up) to buy a new pair.

Perhaps I should do a test with same brand of shoes. 1 pair with Topy and 1 pair without, and see how they look like 2 years later.

Patrick_c

shusum ching

one thing for sure that a topy on top can greatly 'preserve' the sole. before i knew many true shoe brands, i had a pair of ferragamo with a topy on. the topy really did a good job and the front sole looked exactly like new after almost 2 years of wear.

assuming I only wear the shoes once or twice a week > then, each pair can last for more than 3 years. my oldest pair of 'high-end' shoes now is 5 years old, and still alive and kicking.

but money wise, yeah, that's a pain in the butt. the cost can buy a new pair. um, if i i were you, i would leave EG as is and give carmina a try. im not discriminating carmina as far as its quality is concerned, but talking about the price, i woulnt mind trying, i see EG is a truly piece of art that should receive special attention while carmina is a workhorse. just like what i did to my ferragamo, it was under 3k or 4k hkd back then.  

but if you canont tolerate the slippery floor, then i dont think you can avoid a topy.