To get game mode settings right on a Samsung, LG, Sony or TCL set bought in Hong Kong, start with one hard fact: the TV you picked up at Fortress or Broadway is not the same unit reviewed on American YouTube channels. Hong Kong regional firmware differences mean the menu labels on your Samsung, LG, Sony or TCL may be renamed, moved, or hidden entirely. Use the exact menu path, the exact setting name, and the tested input lag figure for each brand below, drawn from published Shmups Forum and RTINGS Leo Bodnar tests. Every number cites its source so you can find the path on your own set.

Root Causes of Input Lag

Every modern TV adds latency because it must scale a low-resolution 240p or 480i signal to 4K, deinterlace it, and apply picture processing. The single biggest lag cut is enabling Game Mode, which bypasses most of the video pipeline. Game Mode alone is not enough on any brand. You also need to disable motion smoothing, called TruMotion on LG, Auto Motion Plus on Samsung, CineMotion on Sony, and Motion Clear on TCL. Turn off noise reduction and MPEG artifact reduction, which are the same processing under different brand names. Set sharpness to zero because edge enhancement adds halos and processing delay. Set HDMI black level to match your source: RGB Limited for consoles that output video levels, RGB Full for PC. On 4K sets you need 4:4:4 chroma subsampling for crisp text, which requires labelling the input as PC or setting the HDMI signal format to Enhanced. And turn off HDMI-CEC, which goes by Simplink on LG, Anynet+ on Samsung, Bravia Sync on Sony, and T-Link on TCL. CEC is the reason your Hong Kong set-top box changes inputs at random.

The measured facts, from the Leo Bodnar database as published on RTINGS: at 1080p 60 Hz, a 2024 Samsung S90D in Game Mode tests at 9.4 ms, a 2024 LG C4 at 9.3 ms, a 2024 Sony Bravia 7 at 16.7 ms, and a 2024 TCL QM8 at 13.0 ms. At 4K 60 Hz, the figures are 9.3 ms, 9.2 ms, 16.8 ms, and 13.1 ms. Outside Game Mode, the same TVs test between 51 ms and well over 100 ms, the gap between playable and unplayable for a shmup or a rhythm game. Quote these numbers when someone tells you a 1 ms difference matters.

These measurements are taken with a Leo Bodnar 1080p or 4K HDMI Input Lag Tester, not a stopwatch. The Shmups Forum input lag database is the community reference, but it is a wiki maintained by hobbyists, not a lab. The RTINGS numbers are published with their own tester and methodology, and they publish the firmware version they tested. If a Hong Kong model carries different firmware, the figure may shift by a millisecond or two. Treat the figures as a reliable baseline, not a guarantee for your specific unit. What you can guarantee is the relative order: LG and Samsung are fastest, TCL is close behind, Sony is slower but still playable.

Samsung: Game Mode, Input Signal Plus, and the 9.4 ms Reality

Samsung's Game Mode on 2024-2025 Tizen models is accessed via Settings > All Settings > Connection > Game Mode Settings. On some Hong Kong models the path is Settings > General > External Device Manager > Game Mode Settings, so check both if you do not see it. The toggle is a single on/off switch. The critical extra setting is Input Signal Plus, which enables full HDMI 2.1 bandwidth and is required for 4:4:4 chroma subsampling. Find it at Settings > All Settings > Connection > External Device Manager > Input Signal Plus. Enable it for the HDMI port your retro scaler is connected to. The input label must be set to PC for 4:4:4 to engage; it is not automatic. In the Game Bar, toggled by holding the play/pause button, turn OFF Game Motion Plus. That setting re-adds interpolation and costs you about 16 ms of lag, taking the TV from 9.4 ms to 25.5 ms at 1080p, per RTINGS. Samsung's ALLM is on by default in Game Mode, but if you are connecting an OSSC or RetroTINK 5X-Pro, ALLM is irrelevant because those devices do not send the ALLM flag. For HDR, set HDR Tone Mapping to HGIG in the Game Bar, not the main picture menu. Samsung's noise reduction and MPEG artifact reduction sit under Picture > Picture Clarity Settings; set both to Off. Sharpness to 0. HDMI black level is under Picture > Expert Settings > HDMI Black Level; set to Limited for retro consoles, Full for PC.

The tested result: 9.4 ms at 1080p, 9.3 ms at 4K, on the 2024 S90D. Older Samsung models with the 'X' suffix in Hong Kong may have slightly different paths; if you own a 2022 or 2023 model, the Game Mode label is the same but the Game Bar may be called Game Optimizer. The key pitfall is forgetting Input Signal Plus. Without it, you get 4:2:2 chroma, and retro game text looks like a smear. The second pitfall is enabling Game Motion Plus, which re-adds judder and lag. If you cannot find the setting, use the search function in Tizen's settings and type 'Game Motion'; it will take you there directly.

LG: Game Optimiser, Prevent Input Delay, and the 9.2 ms Boost

LG's webOS calls it Game Optimiser, not Game Mode. On 2024-2025 models, press the Settings gear, then select Game Optimiser from the quick menu, or navigate Settings > All Settings > Game > Game Optimiser. Inside, set the picture mode to Game. The setting that matters most is Prevent Input Delay, found at Game Optimiser > Prevent Input Delay, with options Off, Standard, and Boost. Set it to Boost. RTINGS measured the difference: with Boost off and Game Optimiser on, the 2024 C4 tests at 26.1 ms at 1080p; with Boost on, 9.3 ms. That is a 17 ms swing for one option. The second critical setting is HDMI Deep Color, under Settings > All Settings > General > HDMI Settings > HDMI Deep Color, which must be enabled for 4:4:4 chroma. You also need to set the input icon to PC; this is how you force the TV to bypass the last bits of processing. LG's motion smoothing is TruMotion, found under Picture > Clarity > TruMotion, set to Off. Noise reduction and MPEG artifact reduction are under Picture > Clarity; both Off. For HDR, Game Optimiser > Advanced Settings > Dynamic Tone Mapping > HGIG. LG's VRR range is 20-144 Hz on the C4, but do not turn on VRR for retro consoles; it only matters for modern PC or console gaming.

The pitfall on LG is the opposite of Samsung: Game Optimiser is on, but Prevent Input Delay is left at Off because the label does not sound like it adds lag. It is the single most mislabelled setting in the TV industry. The second pitfall is forgetting to set the input icon to PC, which disables the 4:4:4 support. The tested result: 9.2 ms at 4K, 9.3 ms at 1080p, on the 2024 C4. Hong Kong LG models carry a 'C' suffix (C4 for 2024) or 'H' for some series; the firmware matches Europe, so the menu path is identical. Some Hong Kong models ship with a grey marketing name like 'C4PSA'; ignore that, it is the same panel and firmware.

Sony: The Slowest Game Mode, But the Easiest Path

Sony's Bravia line on Google TV uses the standard path: Settings > Display & Sound > Picture > Picture Mode > Game. There is no separate Game Bar; Game Mode is a picture preset like any other. The measured lag is 16.7 ms at 1080p and 16.8 ms at 4K on the 2024 Bravia 7. That is slower than LG, Samsung, or TCL, and noticeably slower than the 9 ms class of the OLED competition. But Sony's strength is that Game Mode is genuinely complete: it disables almost all processing by default. You still need to turn off CineMotion (motion smoothing) under Picture > Motion > CineMotion, set to Off. Sharpness to 0. Noise reduction under Picture > Noise Reduction, Off. MPEG artifact reduction under Picture > MPEG Noise Reduction, Off. For 4:4:4 chroma, set the HDMI signal format to Enhanced format (VRR) on the specific port: Settings > Channels & Inputs > External Inputs > HDMI Signal Format, select Enhanced format (VRR). Without this, you are stuck at 4:2:2. Sony's HDR tone mapping is called Gradation on Bravia 7 and newer; set it to Gradation Preferred to get the equivalent of HGIG. Sony's ALLM is automatic, and there is no separate toggle.

The pitfall on Sony is the 240p problem. Sony's scaler treats a 240p signal as 480i, which adds combing and blur. If you are connecting a Super NES or Mega Drive via composite or S-Video, you will see the smearing. The fix: use an OSSC or RetroTINK 5X-Pro to line-double the 240p to 480p before the TV sees it. The RetroTINK 5X-Pro at 1080p output to a Sony Bravia in Game Mode gives you 16.7 ms of TV lag plus the scaler's own 0.5 ms, about 17.2 ms total, acceptable for most players but not for the most sensitive shmup players. The tested result: 16.8 ms at 4K, 16.7 ms at 1080p, on the Bravia 7. Hong Kong models carry an 'H' suffix (e.g., XR77A95L) but the firmware matches Europe. Sony is the only brand where you should check the Shmups Forum database for your specific model, because Sony changes scaler behaviour more than other brands between firmware versions.

TCL: The Budget King With the Most Annoying Menu

TCL's Google TV implementation is straightforward but buried. On 2024 QM8 models, the path is Settings > Display & Sound > Picture > Picture Mode > Game. Many Hong Kong users report the setting label is missing from the quick settings; press the Settings button on the remote twice, then select 'Picture Mode' from the drop-down. The Game Bar is accessed by long-pressing the Settings button on the remote, or via a dedicated Game Bar button on some Hong Kong remote variants. If you have neither, assign it in Settings > System > Remote & Accessories > Customize Buttons. TCL's measured lag is 13.1 ms at 4K and 13.0 ms at 1080p on the 2024 QM8, excellent for the price. But the TV's default processing is heavy. Turn off Motion Clear (motion smoothing) under Picture > Motion > Motion Clear, set to Off. Noise reduction and MPEG artifact reduction are under Picture > Noise Reduction and Picture > MPEG Noise Reduction; both Off. Sharpness to 0. For 4:4:4 chroma, set HDMI mode to Auto or HDMI 2.1 under Settings > Display & Sound > Inputs > HDMI Mode. Do not use the 'Standard' mode, which limits bandwidth. TCL's ALLM is supported, but there is no separate toggle; it activates when the source sends the flag.

The pitfall on TCL is the Game Bar itself. Some Hong Kong models ship with a Game Bar that does not include the 'Game Mode' toggle, only the VRR and ALLM status. The workaround: set the picture mode to Game from within the regular picture settings, then use the Game Bar only to check VRR. TCL's VRR range is 20-144 Hz, but do not enable VRR for retro; it causes flicker at 240p. The tested result: 13.0 ms at 1080p, 13.1 ms at 4K, on the QM8. TCL HK models carry an 'H' suffix, and the Google TV firmware matches the US. TCL is the best budget choice for a Hong Kong apartment where the TV doubles as a modern console display and a retro machine, but you must be willing to dig through the menu.

How to Reduce Input Lag on Any Brand: The Universal Checklist

Beyond the brand-specific paths, five universal steps apply to every TV sold in Hong Kong. First, enable Game Mode last. If you change inputs or cables, the TV may revert to a non-game preset; re-check the picture mode after every switch. Second, disable ALL picture processing, not just the obvious ones. This includes Dynamic Contrast, Auto Local Dimming (on LCD), and any 'Film' or 'Cinema' mode that re-adds judder. Third, set the HDMI black level to match your source. If your scaler outputs RGB Limited, set the TV to Limited, or you will see crushed blacks and washed-out whites. Fourth, if you are using an OSSC or RetroTINK 5X-Pro, output at 1080p or 1440p, not 4K. The scaler's 4K output may force the TV into a higher-latency processing mode; 1080p is the sweet spot for the internal scaler. Fifth, test with a scrolling background. A shmup like Gradius or a platformer like Super Mario World has a known scroll speed; if it looks like it is stuttering, you have missed a processing toggle.

The pitfall for most people is stopping after enabling Game Mode and not touching anything else. The gap between Game Mode only and Game Mode plus the checklist above is 5-15 ms, which is the difference between a game feeling 'fine' and feeling 'direct.' Use the Leo Bodnar figures as a target: if your TV measures above 20 ms at 1080p, you have left something on.

What About a Scaler? The OSSC and RetroTINK 5X-Pro Reality

If you are serious about retro gaming, the TV is only half the equation. The other half is the scaler that converts 240p to a signal your TV understands. The OSSC line-doubles with near-zero lag, measured in microseconds, not milliseconds. It does not deinterlace 480i well, and it cannot handle non-integer scales. The RetroTINK 5X-Pro adds a framebuffer, which gives you motion-adaptive deinterlacing for PS2 games and the ability to output 1080p or 1440p with a CRT filter. It adds about 0.5 ms of lag. The mClassic is a different animal: an HDMI dongle that adds roughly 1-2 ms of lag, per Time Sleuth testing, despite the 'zero lag' marketing. For Hong Kong buyers, the realistic choice is the RetroTINK 5X-Pro at roughly HKD 1,800 or the OSSC at HKD 1,200. The OSSC Pro is the successor with a framebuffer and adaptive line multiplication, but it is not widely available at Hong Kong retail yet.

The pitfall is expecting a scaler to fix a TV that is not in Game Mode. Buy a RetroTINK and check your LG is not still running in Standard mode. The scaler cannot fix a TV that is adding 80 ms. The second pitfall is using composite cables. If you are connecting a Super Famicom, you need RGB SCART or component. The console video output hierarchy: RF worst, composite better, S-Video better, RGB/component best. A Hong Kong Super Famicom (SHVC-CPU) can be RGB-modded for about HKD 300 in parts; a local shop in Golden Computer Centre, Sham Shui Po, can do it for you.

Hong Kong Specifics: Firmware, Suffixes, and Where to Buy

Hong Kong regional model firmware differences are real. Samsung and LG units sold at Fortress and Broadway use the same global firmware as Europe, but the default language and some menu labels differ. Sony units match Europe. TCL units match the US. The model suffix tells you the region: Samsung uses 'X' (e.g., QA55S90DAXZK), LG uses 'C' for 2024 (e.g., OLED55C4PCA), Sony uses 'H' (e.g., K-55XR70H), TCL uses 'H' (e.g., 55QM8H). These suffixes do not affect the menu structure, but they do affect the tuner. Hong Kong no longer uses analogue TV, so the tuner is irrelevant. The real difference is the remote. LG and Samsung HK remotes have fewer buttons than their US counterparts, so the menu navigation paths here may require using the on-screen pointer or the directional pad instead of a dedicated button.

For physical verification, visit a local shop that specialises in retro gaming. The Golden Computer Centre in Sham Shui Po has several stalls that sell RGB SCART cables, OSSC units, and modded consoles. The Hong Kong Retro Game Association meets monthly and organises CRT meetups where you can compare a Sony PVM-20L5 against a 4K OLED in Game Mode. If you are buying a scaler, buy it locally for warranty and to avoid the 10% customs duty on imports over HKD 700. The pitfall is 1 am, you have just bought a Super Famicom, and you cannot wait for a scaler. Your stopgap: use the TV's Game Mode, set Sharpness to 0, turn off Noise Reduction, and accept the 20 ms. It is playable, not perfect.

Fastest Game Mode (1080p): Samsung 9.4 ms / LG 9.3 ms
Slowest Game Mode (1080p): Sony 16.7 ms
Budget Best: TCL 13.0 ms
Must-Disable Setting: Motion smoothing (TruMotion / Auto Motion Plus / CineMotion / Motion Clear)
Must-Enable Setting: 4:4:4 chroma (Input Signal Plus / HDMI Deep Color + PC label / Enhanced format / HDMI 2.1 mode)
Biggest Lag Trap: LG's Prevent Input Delay (Boost) adds 17 ms if left off
Retro 240p Fix: Use OSSC or RetroTINK 5X-Pro; never feed composite directly

Best TV Settings for Retro Consoles: The Measured Baseline

Set up a Samsung, LG, Sony or TCL exactly as described above, and here is what you get, per Shmups Forum and RTINGS Leo Bodnar measurements. Samsung S90D: 9.4 ms at 1080p, 9.3 ms at 4K. LG C4: 9.3 ms at 1080p, 9.2 ms at 4K. Sony Bravia 7: 16.7 ms at 1080p, 16.8 ms at 4K. TCL QM8: 13.0 ms at 1080p, 13.1 ms at 4K. The only number that changes based on region is the firmware version; a Hong Kong Samsung with a different Tizen build might measure 9.6 ms instead of 9.4 ms. The relative order stays the same.

The pitfall is assuming the number tells the whole story. A 9 ms TV in Game Mode is still slower than a CRT at 0 ms. Playing a rhythm game like Parappa the Rapper or the most demanding shmups (Ikaruga, Dodonpachi), that 9 ms is a slight, perceptible delay. For everything else, it is tight. The real takeaway: set your TV to Game Mode, disable motion smoothing, set sharpness to zero, match the black level, and the difference between brands becomes irrelevant.

This guide suits the Hong Kong gamer who wants one 4K TV for modern consoles, movies, and retro gaming and needs the exact settings to make it work. It suits the player who is sensitive to milliseconds and wants to know which scaler to buy. It does not suit the CRT collector who already owns a Sony PVM-20L5 and will never plug a console into a flat panel; that person should keep reading the Shmups Forum and leave the 4K TV for the living room.

Frequently Asked Questions About Game Mode Settings

Why does my 240p signal look blurry even in Game Mode? Because your TV treats 240p as 480i and applies a deinterlacer. You need a scaler like the RetroTINK 5X-Pro to output 480p or 1080p.

Is 4:4:4 chroma necessary for retro gaming? No, 4:4:4 is for text clarity. Retro games use 4:2:2 or lower internally, so you will not see a difference. It matters for a PC desktop or modern 2D games with small fonts.

Should I enable VRR for my retro console? No. VRR adds latency in most implementations and does nothing for 240p or 480i signals.

What is the cheapest way to reduce input lag in Hong Kong right now? Enable Game Mode and turn off motion smoothing. It costs nothing and is 80% of the fix.

Why does my TCL not have a Game Mode button? Some HK models use a simplified remote. Use the on-screen settings path: Settings > Display & Sound > Picture > Picture Mode > Game.

The Best Game Mode Settings by TV Brand for Retro Gaming on Samsung, LG, Sony, and TCL